Hair extensions — a styling staple for hundreds of thousands of girls, notably ladies of colour — might include way more doubtlessly dangerous chemical compounds than researchers as soon as realized.
Hair extensions will not be as innocent as beforehand thought, says the lead writer, Elissia Franklin, PhD, a analysis scientist on the Silent Spring Institute in Newton, Massachusetts, a scientific analysis group devoted to investigating hyperlinks between on a regular basis chemical compounds and ladies’s well being.
And it’s not simply extensions made with artificial hair that would pose well being dangers. “We additionally discovered a number of dangerous chemical compounds in human hair,” says Dr. Franklin.
Hair Extensions Contained Flame Retardants, Pesticides, and Identified Carcinogens
Hair extensions are sometimes utilized in so-called protecting hair types like braids, twists, and weaves. Producers manufacture them from artificial fibers and bio-based supplies, together with human hair, typically handled with chemical compounds to make them flame resistant, waterproof, or antimicrobial.
Firms not often disclose the chemical compounds used to make extensions, which leaves shoppers in the dead of night in regards to the well being dangers from extended put on, Franklin says.
She and her group bought 43 in style hair extension merchandise on-line and from magnificence provide shops. The merchandise included artificial fibers (largely plastic polymers) and bio-based supplies, together with human hair.
Moderately than testing for only a handful of recognized chemical compounds, the researchers used a broad screening technique designed to detect a variety of compounds, together with ones not usually evaluated in client merchandise.
In whole, the group recognized 169 chemical compounds throughout the samples.
Key findings embrace:
- All however two merchandise contained not less than one chemical thought of hazardous.
- 48 chemical compounds appeared on main hazard lists.
- 12 chemical compounds had been listed beneath California’s Proposition 65 as linked to most cancers, delivery defects, or reproductive hurt.
- 17 chemical compounds related to breast most cancers had been detected in additional than three-quarters of the samples.
- Practically 10 % of samples contained organotins, chemical compounds utilized in plastics which have been linked to hormone disruption and most cancers. In some instances, organotin ranges exceeded security thresholds set by the European Union.
Researchers additionally discovered flame retardants, phthalates, pesticides, and different compounds which have been related in prior research with hormone disruption, weakened immunity, and developmental issues.
Extra Research Are Warranted
As a result of the examine appeared solely on the presence of sure chemical compounds, and never their affect on the short- or long-term well being of girls who use them, it did not show that hair extensions trigger most cancers or different illnesses.
However based on the chemical analyses, there’s potential for carcinogenic and different poisonous results, says Sandy Tsao, MD, a dermatologist at Mass Common Hospital in Boston, who was not concerned within the analysis.
“Additional research are warranted to find out a potential affiliation with reproductive or different cancers and systemic dangers from chemical exposures in hair care,” says Dr. Tsao.
Why the Research Findings Might Matter Extra for Black Ladies
“Because the examine highlights, that is particularly harmful for Black ladies, who are sometimes the most important shoppers of hair extensions,” says Leandra Barnes, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and an teacher at Stanford College in California, who was not concerned within the analysis.
“They’re typically worn repeatedly for weeks, rising cumulative publicity to those chemical compounds. As a result of extensions sit close to the scalp, face, and neck and are continuously heat-styled, there’s potential for each pores and skin absorption and inhalation,” says Dr. Barnes.
Publicity Dangers Might Add Up Over a Lifetime
Black ladies typically begin utilizing extensions and chemical hair merchandise at younger ages, use them extra continuously, and layer a number of practices — extensions, relaxers, dyes, and edge merchandise, for instance, Tsao says. “Even low-level chemical compounds turn into riskier when publicity is power and lifelong,” she provides.
Franklin agrees, saying, “We all know that exposures are cumulative, and so what the examine suggests is that hair extensions needs to be thought of when serious about our whole publicity.”
Tsao factors out that tight braiding and scalp irritation can disrupt the pores and skin barrier.
“Micro-tears and irritation might doubtlessly improve chemical absorption,” says Tsao, although extra analysis is required to quantify that threat.
Magnificence Business Lacks Transparency and Oversight, Particularly in Merchandise Marketed to Black Ladies
“These findings spotlight how the sweetness business, together with an anticipated $14 billion hair extension market by 2028, has been allowed to function with restricted transparency and oversight — particularly for merchandise closely marketed to and utilized by Black ladies,” says Barnes.
When merchandise central to assembly social, cultural, {and professional} magnificence expectations include hazard-listed chemical compounds, the well being burden is shifted onto Black ladies, elevating severe issues about fairness, knowledgeable consent, and environmental justice, she says.
From an business and regulatory standpoint, there needs to be necessary ingredient disclosure for artificial hair fibers and all chemical compounds integrated onto any hair fiber kind, says Tsao.
There also needs to be extra testing, clear labeling, and research on extension supplies and the potential dangers of cumulative publicity, she says.
Can You Use Hair Extensions Safely?
Whereas there isn’t a confirmed approach to make use of chemical-laden hair extensions utterly “safely,” hurt discount is feasible, says Barnes.
If potential, attempt to discover hair extensions which are free of poisons (there have been two extensions that the examine discovered to be freed from dangerous chemical compounds), she says.
Different methods to decrease your threat embrace:
- Scale back how typically and the way lengthy you put on extensions.
- Wash merchandise earlier than use.
- Keep away from set up on irritated or damaged scalp pores and skin.
- Reduce high-heat styling and guarantee good air flow throughout styling.
“If sores, rashes, or itching are skilled after set up, though it may need been an costly coiffure, it is very important take away the extensions,” says Barnes.
When you have an allergic response to the chemical compounds or elements in extensions, you might wish to observe up with a dermatologist to get the proper prognosis and remedy, she says.
There could also be methods to cut back the chance of sporting extensions, however the burden shouldn’t be on the buyer, says Barnes.
“These findings underscore the necessity for stronger regulation and full ingredient disclosure so that customers could make really knowledgeable decisions about merchandise they use on their our bodies,” she says.
